Lenin and Muztag Ata peaks climbing. 35 days, from Bishkek or Tashkent.
Regions: Kyrgyzstan, China, Pamir.
Activity: mountaineering expedition, ski mountaineering
Trip Category: special
Difficulty: difficult, need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear. 6 nights hotel accommodation, 28 nights at tents.
Season: July-August.
Fixed departure: July, 7 -August, 20 from/to Bishkek, full guided, all inclusive climbing.
Pamir - one of the interpretation of the origin of the word is "The Roof of The World" is one of the world's biggest mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from medium trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far because of practically absent of industrial development and very rare population. The highest summit of entire Pamir is Muztag Ata peak (7,547 m).
The ice wall of Lenin Peak (7,134 m high, other name is Kuh-i-Garmo) is unforgettable scenery seen after you reach the Alaisky valley with very rare summer settlements of local herders ("jailau"). Visiting these settlements makes interesting social experience. The climbing of Lenin Peak from North (5A CC mountaineering) is perfect adventure and recommended as preparation to climb much difficult peaks (Communism, Pobeda, Khan-Tengri) due to very few technical climbing is involved but you can obtain excellent high-altitude acclimatization. All the participants who will succesfuly climb the Lenin peak will be awarded with special diploma.
Muztag Ata is an isolated massif rising from the western end of the Takla Makan Desert in the Sinkiang (Xinjiang) Province of China. In Uygur language "Muztagh Ata" means "The father of icy mountains". It lies in the hub of the great mountain ranges of Asia, with the Karakoram to the south, the Pamir to the west and the Kun Lun and Tien Shan to the north. About 100 miles to the North is the misterious city of Kashgar. The snowy slopes of Muztag Ata rise from a remote corner of the Central Asian Plateau, and the easiest approache here is via the famous Karakoram Highway. The only settlements in the area lie along the highway while nomadic Kyrgyz people roam the vast plains with their camels and horses.
At 7,546 m (24,757 ft) Muztag Ata is perhaps the highest mountain suitable for ski mountaineering in the world. Of course, its early pioneers did not have skis and deep snow thwarted early attempts on it, including one by Eric Shipton and Bill Tillman in 1947. They ploughed a furrow to within 70 metres of the summit before being turned back. It was 1st climbed in 1956 by a large Chinese-Russian expedition, which placed total 31 climbers on the summit. Three years later even this success was topped when 33 members of a Chinese expedition climbed it, 8 of whome were women. The first ski ascent of Muztag Ata was made in 1980 by an American expedition led by Ned Gillette.
For the 1st time Muztag Ata looks like dome with easy gentle slopes, but it is regarded as an excellent high altitute climb included few technical problems. The average temperature over 7200 m can be as low as -20°C (the lowest was -30°C ). The best season for climbing is June- August and 1st half of September. The position of the Muztag Ata is longitude 75.1° E and 38.5° N. As usual, you need to establish 3 high altitude camps above 5000 m. Vertical distance is 3100 m. Grade is Russian (UIAA) 5A.
Consecutive climbing of Lenin peak then Muztag Ata peak is perfect adventure based on an idea of getting acclimatisation and training on Lenin peak then climbing higher peak.
Itinerary:
Day 1 Arrival to Bishkek. Meeting at airport. Transfer to hotel ** (DBL BB or optional SGL).
Day 2 Flight Bishkek - Osh, meeting at airport, hotel accommodation ** BB.
Day 3 Trahsfer Osh-Achik-Tash (the base camp on 3500 m aka "Onion Glade"), about 10 hrs drive on Pamirsky Trakt (Pamir Highway), high pass - 3615 m - en route. You make a stop for lunch in intermediate base "Taldyk" on Pamir Highway, we serve a variety of meals and drinks in a yurt (Kyrgyz national dwelling) which makes your trip less tiring! Tent accommodation (2 persons tents) at BC.
Day 4 Preparation day. Acclimatization ascent on Petrovskogo peak (4700 m) or Travellers Pass (4150 m) - recommended. Tent accommodation at BC.
Day 5 Climb to the Camp-1 (ABC, 4400 m) through Travellers' Pass (4150 m), about 5 hrs. Tent accommodation (2-persons tent) in ABC (4200 m).
Day 6 Climb to the Camp-2. 5300 m. Steep ice slope, crevasses, then traverse to so-called "Skovorodka" (flat area).
Day 7 Climb to the Camp-3. 6100 m, via the spur and Peak Razdelnaya (6200 m).
Day 8 Descent to the Camp-1 (ABC). Tent accommodation.
Day 9 Descent to the base camp 3500 m. Tent accommodation in BC.
Day 10 Day of rest. Tent accommodation in BC.
Day 11 Preparations for climbing (assault attempt). Tent accommodation in BC.
Days 12-14 Climb to the Camp-1 (ABC, 4200 m, tent accommodation), Camp-2 (5300 m) and Camp-3 (6100 m).
Day 15 Ascent of the summit 7134 m . Along the narrow ridge to the "Knife" (steep ice spur with fixed ropes), then on the rocky ridge to the plateau (6900-7000 m) and to the summit. Descent to the Camp-3 reverse way.
Day 16 Descent to the Camp-1 (ABC). Tent accommodation in ABC.
Day 17 Descent to the base camp. 3500 m. Tent accommodation in BC.
Day 18 Spare day for the case of bad weather.
Day 19 Transfer Onion Glade (Achik Tash) – Irkeshtam Pass (Kyrgyz-Chinese border) – Kashgar, hotel (**DBL BB).
Day 20 Transfer Kashgar-Subashi (bus, 200 km, 4-5 hrs), then camel caravan to Muztag Ata BC. Drive along the Karakoram Highway for several hours through the narrow gorge of the Gez river to the shore of Karakuri Lake at 3,900 m, 196 km from Kashgar. Horses, yaks and camels graze on the rich pasturage. Here the camel caravan get start. Then drive 10 km to Subashi, wait for the caravan and trek over a level plane and then climb steadily through barren hills to Muztag Ata Base Camp (BC), approximately a 4-hour walk (Incl: BLD) .
Days 21-30 Climbing activity. Full board in BC.
Day 31 Camel caravan back to Subashi. Transfer Subashi-Kashgar. Hotel accommodation. Incl. BLD.
Day 32 City tour at Kashgar, last day of the expedition. Tour includes the tombs of Abakh Hoja Tomb, well-known Kashgar Bazaar (local market), the famous Id Kah Mosque and the most unique old town with typical Uygur-styled homes. Visit of the various shopping alleys full of noodle shops, bakeries, teashops, blacksmiths and carpenters (DBL BB)
Day 33 Transfer Kashgar- Torugart pass- Naryn (or Kashgar- Irkeshtam pass- Osh). Yurt or hotel accommodation (BB).
Day 34 Flight to Bishkek. Overnight in hotel (**DBL BB).
Day 35 Transfer hotel-airport. Departure from Bishkek.
Included: visa support for China, visa registration, meeting/seen off and transfers in Bishkek, all transfers and flights according the programme, camel caravan for carrying the gear to Muztag Ata BC and return (1 camel carries 80 kg for 2 persons), meals on Subashi- BC trek and on return, *** DBL BB hotel accommodation in Bishkek, ** in Naryn and Kashgar (yurt accommodation in Naryn is possible!), all permits and local fees, services in Onion Glade BC: full board in BC and ABC: tent accommodation (2 persons tents) and 3 time a day hot meals, toilet, cloak room and sauna in BC and ABC, dining/rest yurt in BC and ABC, electricity in BC and ABC, medical aid in BC and ABC, guide-instructor and iterpreter in BC and ABC, rescue rangers team registration, services in Muztag Ata BC: tent accommodation at 2 persons tents, 3 time a day hot meals in BC, all the local staff (incl. liaison officer) supply (meals, wages, insurance, gear), city tour (transfers, tickets, guide) in Kashgar, both peaks: experienced climbing guide and expedition leader service, climbing porters, food and fuel for climbing.
Not included: Travel to and from Bishkek, visa fees, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance.
Options. 6 days expansion for climbing activity on Muztag Ata (Days 21-36 instead of Days 21-30 of above). The start/end point can be changed with Tashkent. Visa support for Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan. Hotel accommodation in Bishkek, Tashkent (from * to *****), SGL accommodation, transfers in Bishkek and Tashkent, additional excursions (Sulaimoni Hill in Osh is recommended) gear rental, additional days in BCs, 1-week acclimatization trip near Bishkek (recommended).
Note. The citizens of most of industrial states don't need visa support for Kyrgyzstan, visa is available upon arrival at airport.
Notes:
Airfare is not included in the tour price.
Minimum cost: 45 days standart package, maximum - full guided + acclimatization tour included. Payment can be done in 2 parts: $2000 upon booking, the rest - 20 days prior to departure. 35 days option- on special request
Also see tour packages in:
Asia
Kyrgyzstan
Mountain/Rock Climbing
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