Pik Imeni Ismail Samani, formerly Communism Peak, is the highest peak in the Pamirs, and the highest in the former Soviet Union. It is situated on the junction of the Academia Nauk and Pyotr Pyervy ridges and so remote that it took explorers twenty years to find a way to it. Communism Peak is a huge craggy mountain, heavily glaciated despite its rising above a dry, barren region. The rock is poor and the approach is difficult, but because it is the highest of all peaks in the region, climbers have been active on the mountain for decades, and a variety of routes exist to the summit. The mountain's name has a long political history. Its name was Pik Garmo until 1933, when it was changed to Pik Stalin. In 1962, it was changed to Communism Peak, and in 1998 to its current name, Pik Imeni Ismail Samani.
Route description
The safest route leads from the Walter Glacier bivouac (4500 m) to and across the Big Pamir Plateau (at about 6000 m, 3 km wide by 12 km long). The climb of Peak Dunshabe (6950 m) follows and the main summit is reached by a long and steep ice slope.
Hike up the Walter Glacier. Traverse through northern slope (4 - 5 hrs). To the Camp (5300 m). Hiking up by the right side of the moraine of the Walter Glacier. Crossing the glacier by the ice plateau under the walls of Pamir Big Plateau. It is necessary to cross it as early as possible and at maximum speed. Further the route follows by rock section to the crest (about 6-7 hours).
Camp (5300 m) - Camp (5800 m). Northern ridge (4-5 hrs). This part of the route is technically not difficult, wide snow crest with parts of 35-40 degrees steepness. The camp is located in mould. Camp (5800 m) - Camp (6100 m). Pamir big Plateau (4-5 hrs). Early start and ascent to the two-headed summit. Climbing in roped-party. Traverse to the left to the top and then descent to Pamir Big Plateau. Camp (6900 m) - northern snow/ice slope of Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7-8 hrs). Early start. Climbing in roped-party. An ascent is technically easy. After ascent to Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7000 m.) descent to the camp at 6900m. Camp (6900 m) - summit - back to camp (6900 m) (8-9 hrs). Early start. The route climbs up the steep snow slope to the rocks. Above this, there is an exposed part leads to the summit.
Your Itinerary
Option I (via Dzhirgital)
Day 1: Arrival in Dushanbe. Meeting, transfer, hotel
Day 2: Drive Dushanbe-Djirgital
Day 3: Flight by helicopter to the Moskvina glacier at BC “Alp-Navruz”
Days 4-23: Acclimatization and climbing activities
Days 24-26: Reserve days
Day 27: Flight by helicopter to Djirgital Drive to Dushanbe. Hotel
Day 28: Departure from Dushanbe
Option II (via Dushanbe)
Day 1: Arrival in Dushanbe. Meeting, transfer, hotel
Day 2: Flight by helicopter to the Moskvina glacier at BC “Alp-Navruz”
Days 3-22: Acclimatization and climbing activities
Days 23-26: Reserve days
Day 27: Flight by helicopter to Dushanbe. Hotel
Day 28: Departure from Dushanbe
Notes:
Airfare is not included in the tour price.
Price includes:
- visa support letter(s)
- permit for climbing and permit for visit border zone & registration in immigration police department
- meeting / seeing off at / from the airport, airport transfers
- all transfers according to the program
- accommodation in hotel (2*) with breakfast (2 nights) in DBL room
- services in Base Camp “Alp-Navruz” (full board)
- helicopter flights to BC and back with luggage of 30kg/person
Price doesn’t includes:
- visas
- service of mountain-guide and porters above BC
- rent of equipment for ascent
Also see tour packages in:
Asia
Tajikistan
Mountain/Rock Climbing
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