Korzhenevskaya Peak (7105 m) is situated on the Academia Nauk ridge (Pamir), thirteen kilometres north of Peak Communism. It was first discovered by the topographer Korzenevskij around 1900 and named after his wife. Korzhenevskaya Peak was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1953.
Route description
The safest way leads up from the Korzhenevski Glacier; mostly easy rock scrambling low down with extended snow and ice above. To the Camp (5100 m): Hiking up along small river and crossing the Moskvin glacier lead to the first bivouac site. Camp (5100 m) – Camp (5300 m): The route goes along rather steep glacier, which comes down from the south slope of the mountain. Camp 5300m is located at morene. In the case of good weather you’ll see all further way to the summit from this camp. Camp (5300 m) – Camp (6100 m): Above this, the route continues up the ice/snow slope and then a long traverse using crampons and ice axes toward the south ridge. Camp (6100 m) – Camp (6400 m): Here climbers meet the key of this route - the vertical rock step of about 50 m. Then – long and technically easy way up along the snow crest. Camp (6400 m) – Summit: The route follows the snow crest towards the top. The joy of thousand summits (especially, Communism Peak) in the view from here is great!
Your Itinerary
Option I (via Dzhirgital)
Day 1: Arrival in Dushanbe. Meeting, transfer, hotel
Day 2: Drive Dushanbe-Djirgital
Day 3: Flight by helicopter to the Moskvina glacier at BC “Alp-Navruz”
Days 4-23: Acclimatization and climbing activities
Day 24-26: Reserve days
Day 27: Flight by helicopter to Djirgital Drive to Dushanbe. Hotel
Day 28: Departure from Dushanbe
Option II (via Dushanbe)
Day 1: Arrival in Dushanbe. Meeting, transfer, hotel
Day 2: Flight by helicopter to the Moskvina glacier at BC “Alp-Navruz”
Day 3-22: Acclimatization and climbing activities
Day 23-26: Reserve days
Day 27: Flight by helicopter to Dushanbe. Hotel
Day 28: Departure from Dushanbe
Notes:
Airfare is not included in the tour price.
Price includes:
- visa support letter(s)
- permit for climbing and permit for visit border zone & registration in immigration police department
- meeting / seeing off at / from the airport, airport transfers
- all transfers according to the program
- accommodation in hotel (2*) with breakfast (2 nights) in DBL room
- services in Base Camp “Alp-Navruz” (full board)
- helicopter flights to BC and back with luggage of 30kg/person
Price not includes:
- visas
- service of mountain-guide and porters above BC
- rent of equipment for ascent
Also see tour packages in:
Asia
Tajikistan
Mountain/Rock Climbing
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